Travel blog dispelling myths about certain countries and sharing holiday love with kid-free 30 somethings on a budget. http://30pluswanderlust.blogspot.co.uk
This post has been contributed by Mair Parry Roberts who travelled to Japan with her friend in April 2013.
歓迎 / Welcome Having had a few years off travelling long-haul,
it was time to re-kindle my love affair with the big wide world and pack the
rucksack (ok, now I’m 44 it’s a suitcase!) and head for Japan with my lovely
friend who’s in her late 30’s, but looks much younger of course!
We flew with Virgin and let me just say that the
seats were maybe more suitable for the Japanese bottom rather than the UK
bottom! I remember having much more room last time but there we
are, I’m a stone heavier by now! We paid
around £600 for the flight – travelling in April (cherry blossom season) but to
be honest, there wasn’t much difference in price between the major
airlines.
Beautiful Japanese Cherry Blossoms
Daunting station but plenty of help!
There’s a lot of help available to get you into
the city centre when you arrive at Narita Airport. We opted for the
express train (around £20 one way) into Shinjuku Station, where we were staying
and yes, the station names are in English, so you know which one to get
off. Now I think I’m right in saying that Shinjuku is
the busiest passenger station in the world and to say that it was daunting
would be an understatement. Not an “I’m scared” daunting, but an
“Oh my God, where the hell are we going” daunting! There’s no point
getting stressed, just allow plenty of time to go from one place to another and
if you do get lost (which you will) just enjoy the ride! Take note, trains
depart bang on time! By the way, look out for the “Time Out” guides for
each area in the train stations – they’re filled with quirky “things to do and
see". The Subway is also a great way of travelling and is not as
scary as it looks!
Subway map - not as scary as it looks!
Peace amongst chaos...
Tokyo is a magnificent city but what struck me
was the peace, order and serenity there. Even though there are huge
crowds and heavy traffic, it’s really strangely quiet. Everyone has
their nose in their mobile phones and they’re way too polite for road
rage.
There are various districts - Roppongi ( trendy )
and Ginza (shopping) to name but a few, but we stayed in Shinjuku – the area
where the lights dazzle 24hrs, where technology shops are in abundance and
shopping malls everywhere (make sure you visit the Food Halls - a feast for the
senses). Also, look out for the Daiso shops if you want to grab a bargain
(ranging from rice bowls, chopsticks, stationery, sweets) to take home as
souvenirs. Everything's 105 yen - that's around 70p (damn, everyone knows now
how much I spent on them now!)
Bright lights of Tokyo
Expensive hotels, pack your tea bags!
We stayed at the Hotel Sunroute Plaza (around
£60 each per night) - a bit expensive, but
central. A lot of hotels charge extra for breakfast, so being my mother’s
daughter, I’d packed teabags, breakfast biscuits and dried milk which was a
godsend.
If you're like me and not too keen on Japanese food,
there’s plenty of other restaurants there, but we did try a Japanese meal
whilst there – honest! It's customary to be given a wet cloth before you
eat in order to clean your hands. By the way, you don't need to tip in
Japan.The food is around the same price as this country, but we bought a picnic to take with us every day – (growing up in the 70's has a lot to answer for!) There's plenty of 7/11 stores or sandwich shops dotted around. We even found a lovely white wine in the 7/11 for around £3.
Typical Japanese dish
Tokyo skyline comes at a price...
Amongst the sights we saw in Tokyo were the Senso-ji temple, the
Imperial Palace, the Shibuya crossing (you'll get a great view of the crossing
from the Starbucks coffee shop and you don't really have to buy a coffee). We also explored Meiji shrine
(where you might even catch a traditional wedding if you're there at the weekend) and
the Shinjuku Goyen Park. They have wonderful green parks in the city with
the backdrop of the high rise buildings - it's quite a contrast. We splashed
out on the final night and had a drink in the Grand Hyatt (location of
"Lost in Translation"). The view of the Tokyo skyline is stunning, but it comes at a price - expensive drinks
and a cover charge if you're there after 8pm. I do believe you can get the same
view in the Metropolitan Government building which isn't too far from the hotel and free!
Tokyo Skyline
Sayonara Tokyo and hello Kyoto!
We arrived here on the
Shinkansen (bullet train), passing the snow covered Mount Fuji. You need
to buy a JR pass for this train here in the UK , then redeem it in any
station in Japan. There's a more traditional feel to Kyoto - you're likely to
see ladies wearing their gorgeous kimonos, and if you're lucky you might
see a a Geisha girl, as we did walking through the Gion District (but missed
the photo opportunity!). Do go to see the 10,000 torii gates at the Fushimi
Inari temple - there's a lovely walk up into the mountain with stunning views
of Kyoto when you get there. There's also a lovely canal walk near the
university - The philosopher's walk.
Back onto the bullet train, we headed for Hiroshima - famous for that fateful day in August 1945 when the city was obliterated by the atomic bomb. The Hiroshima peace memorial park and museum is a must. It was quite sobering and to be honest, rather emotional.
Fushimi Inari temple
On a lighter note, another must is a visit to Okonomi-Mura food hall where you can try the local dish - Okonomiyaki. This is a Japanese pancake cooked on a hot plate.
A short tram ride to the ferry port allows you to visit Myajima Island and walk with the deer (and pinch your food given half the chance!). Here you can see the famous Torri gate in the water - apparently one of Japan's most famous views.
All in all, we'll take away some great memories and experiences
from this wonderful, polite, orderly, serene and crazy place. Arigato Japan! ありがとう日本
Here you will find advice on: Hotels, flights, Local transport, San Antonio, Ibiza Town, Supermarkets, bar + food prices, hidden gems, coves, beaches and general travel tips.
Sal and I have just returned from a very nice, relaxing holiday in Ibiza. When we went there 10 years ago, we needed another holiday to get over it. Yes, we were in our early 20's, thin, carefree and loaded (the benefits of still living at home). 10 years, 2 stone, a few grey hairs , stressful jobs and a million responsibilities later, we found ourselves discussing where we would holiday this year. Turkey, Greece and France were all on the cards but at the very last minute we decided on Ibiza. This came about after a long conversation of sharing our ibiza experiences, the madness, the legendary nights of drink fuelled escapades, when the party starts at 3pm and ends the following morning. We concluded that neither of us could cope with that now. But, in that chat was a mutual memory of how beautiful the island actually was and due to the fact that we were out all night and hungover all day back then, a realisation that maybe we'd missed out on a very beautiful side to this Balearic island... What to book? The obvious thing to start searching for is a package holiday - we went through everything that was on offer in the price range of £250-£420 p/w (each) on various travel agency sites that was suitable for couples (any pics with children screaming on water slides in hotel resorts were swiftly dismissed!). The holidays under £300 however usually mean an 18-30 type accomodation with very basic facilities and banging music around the clock (my option in 2004!). Flying from Bristol seemed to be a cheaper option than Cardiff (which is usually the case these days if you live in South Wales), which then got us thinking about booking flights and accomodation separately. This was a good move as we eventually found very cheap flights with Ryan Air where staying for 10 days was considerably cheaper than returning a week later. In fact this option was so much cheaper that it afforded us an extra few days there. We wanted to be far enough away from the action but close enough if the mood took us and so decided on Apartmentos El Coto in Cala Gracióa - a self catering hotel on the bay accross the the water from the Sunset Strip nightlife, a 2 minute walk from the nearest beach +10 min walk from the action of San Antonio's West End.
Sea View from room in El Coto
This, it turned out, was an excellent choice - the building was quiet and relaxed with good self catering facilities in the room which also had a nice sea view from the balcony. We booked 6 nights here then decided to book the remaining 3 nights somewhere else in Ibiza which we arranged when we got there. Flight: Ryan air £123 each return + £50 each for checked luggage (15k) - we took one case between us which was more than enough + a 10k bag each hand luggage which is free. Accomodation: Apartmentos El Coto (booked via Thomas Cook) £148 each for 6 nights.
Tip: - ALWAYS weigh your baggage before boarding a Ryan Air flight, don't risk not doing it as the extra charges are sky high - we saw a few girls sobbing having to leave their disco boots behind! Aisle 41 in Ibiza Airport provides free baggage weighing for you to do this before flying home. Tip- Greyhound bus service now offers journeys to and from Bristol Airport for £10 each way from your local city. Sant Anthony De Portmany (AKA San Antonio!) Described by Time Magazine as "arguably the clubbing capital of the universe" , we can also say that San Antonio could well be one of the most peaceful and beautiful places in Europe - depending on where you go of course. The west end is, without any doubt or argument, absolutely bat shit crazy in the evening.
Walking down one of the streets in this part after sunset is a total eye opener if you haven't been there before. It's a human zoo full of skimpily clad girls and boys on a mission to have the most hedonistic week of their lives (and who can blame them after being in 'A-level' exam captivity for months on end?!). Upon arrival at the bus station from the airport, we had to walk down the marina front to find a taxi to the hotel and had a cheeky beer on the way. There we saw hoards of teenagers off their heads on what I can only assume to be an A-Z cocktail of leisure drugs. One man was so absolutely off it that he was walking around, covered in sweat, chewing his face off and trying to use the tablecloths from the tables of various restaurants to dry himself off. The waiters soon wrestled him to the ground and his friends ushered him from the area whilst Sally and I aptly nick named him 'Sweaty back chompy face'. Poor sod, his hangover must have lasted weeks... TIP: The local buses from the airport to San Antonio leave every 15 minutes (Bus number 9) and cost €4 each way. This is considerably cheaper than €30+ for a taxi or transport organised by a travel agent and only takes 30mins max. The last stop is San Antonio bus station and from here you can get a taxi to your hotel (taxis are quite cheap). Click here for timetable and maps but be sure to have google translate on as they only offer the website in Spanish and Catalan. But I'm here to relax! Ok, don't panic - we promise that this isn't a reflection on the whole of Sant Anthony De Portmany or I would have hot footed it back home to rainy Cardiff. We arrived at the hotel in the early hours, the staff were lovely and welcoming and we were happy with the room. The following morning Sal opened the balcony doors to reveal a stunning view of the Mediterranean sea - oh yes, we could get used to this. It's always a good idea to get your bearings on the first day so off we went for a little stroll. We headed in the direction of the beach which was a 2 minute walk from the hotel. At the top of the road there's an entrance to a footpath with a sign for an aquarium. Walking down this path revealed a view of the sea and the whole of the bay that was nothing short of stunning. We couldn't believe our eyes when we saw the colour of the water - azure and turquoise, the kind of image you see in pictures of Caribbean holidays.
Sunset Strip from the other side of the bay
As you stand here you can see the famous bars of Kanya, Mambo and Cafe Del Mar and at night you can sit here watching the sun set with a few cold beers and hear the sounds booming from the bars.
The great thing about this bay is you can walk around all the coastline on foot, giving you ample chance to explore everything. Take a right from this point along the footpath and you will see a shack type building on top of an old cave. The sign describes it as an aquarium but when you get there you realise it's so much more than this. Aquarium Cap Blanc, commonly referred to as 'Cave of Lobsters' was once an old smugglers cave, and is now filled with local sea life such as turtles, moray eel, lobster, octopus, sea horses and skate all on display in the underground cave. These are often injured sea life rescued for rehabilitation in the aquarium. Above the cave is a little shack which is a bar and cafe - this became our favourite place to hang out during the trip.
Hidden Gem
Aquarmium Cap Blanc
Aquarium Cap Blanc isn't advertised as a bar or cafe and isn't promoted like all the other venues in San Antonio. Situated on the outskirts of San An, close to Cala Gracio beach, you have to come across it to realise it's there and that's part of its charm and why it's such an amazing place to chill out. Stepping inside the wooden shack made me feel i was back in South East Asia with its lovely vibe and natural surroundings.
From here you can see the bright lights of the sunset bay across the water and catch a glimpse of the sunset.
The food offered by day is a simple selection of sandwiches and snacks with prices starting at €5. You can also grab a cold beer here for €3 and set up a tab if you have visa.
Sunset is a lovely time to come here, even though you don't get the full view like you do in bars on the Sunset Strip, it's still rather beautiful.
However, an absolute must is coming here on a Friday or Saturday night for 'Sardines Supper'. This is when the local fishermen deliver fresh sardines which are cooked over an outdoor grill and served with a potato salad. For €12.50 you can eat as much as you like, and trust me, you will. The food was so delicious I think I ate my own body weight in Sardines that evening and probably looked like a giant sardine after I finally decided to put my fork down hours later. It's always a good sign when you see locals eating in a restaurant and that was the case here. Believe me, food wise this is one of the best deals you'll get in San Antonio. The place was buzzing but the service was still very good, with drinks being topped up and more food arriving regularly. The price also includes free entry to the aquarium.
Tip: Visit the bar in the day on Friday or Saturday and book your place to avoid disappointment.
Tip: Take some loo roll as there are no toilets! The 'toilet' will be one of the bushes hidden behind the aquarium - It's ok we promise!
Tip: Take a light jacket in the evening as the temperature cools.
Locals and holidaymakers enjoying the Sardine Supper
Sunset view of the Aquarium / Bar
Beaches
Cala Gracio Beach
From the aquarium you can keep
walking around the footpath along the cliff (the view of the sea is beautiful)
until you come to a beach called Cala Gracio. As the full view of the beach is
revealed, you’ll know you’ve come to the right place and will definitely be up
there as a regular place to hang out on your holiday. Cala Gracio is about 2km North of main San Antonio, and away from the main beaches which are usually packed in the day.
Its pristine , clear waters and white sandy beach make it one of the best beaches in Ibiza. It also has a really secluded feel to it, away from the hustle and bustle of the sunset strip. People of all ages, shapes and sizes hang out here and it's really relaxed. If you like the thought of going topless ladies, here's the place to get your waps out! It also has a beach bar serving light refreshments, snacks and serves up some lovely local fish dishes. As you stand on the beach and look directly out to sea, look to your right and you will see some steps heading towards the clifftop hidden amongst the trees. Take a walk up these steps and around the rocky coastline and you will eventually think you've arrived in paradise. As we stopped to see this stunning little cove ahead of us, we smiled at each other knowing that this is what we'd come here for.
Cala Gracioneta
Cala Gracioneta
Cala Gracioneta will be your reward for making the effort to walk around the rocky coastline and cliff tops in the searing heat. As you can see, the water it completely clear and the area totally unspoiled. Find your spot on the white, sandy beach and relax, take a swim, read or just soak up the sun. Make the most of your time here because you WILL be dreaming about it when you get back to your office on that gloomy monday morning.
Tip: Before setting out on your beach walk, get some beers from the local supermarket and pack them in your ruck sack. This will save you a fortune!
Tip: Buy a cheap snorkel (€3 euros at local Eroski supermarket in San Antonio town). The water is so clear you can see all the sea life even in the shallow end.
Tip: On the coastal pathway towards the beach, look out to sea and share a kiss with your loved one!
As if this wasn't enough of a lovely surprise, as we walked towards the sand we noticed that at the top of the beach there was an absolutely stunning rustic little restaurant called El Chiringuito . We arrived in the afternoon and unfortunately they were closed as they were preparing for a wedding in the evening. I say unfortunately but this was probably a very good thing having seen the prices! And, given the fact that we were feeling brave having already had a few cold ones on the beach there would have been a very high chance of me whipping out the plastic then having an absolute fit when the credit card bill landed on my door step weeks later. This is not a budget eat for those of us coming here on foot - I guess it is for the lucky b****s arriving by yacht! Having said that, if you are feeling plush then the reviews for this restaurant are good.
A view from El Chiringuto Restaurant
Budget eats + self catering
We went for the self catering option because I love cooking. Sally on the other hand hates cooking but likes cleaning so it always works out rather well. There are supermarkets all over the place in San An but for range, quality and price the best by far is Eroski Supermarket located in the centre of San An. The fresh food on offer is plentiful with fresh meat, fish, fruit and veg all there in abundance. We picked up some fabulous fresh fish from there including a Kilo of Mussels for €1.50. Beer and drinks are also cheap - a bottle of sparkling wine will set you back a lovely €2 and a 6 pack of beers about €3. Around the corner from here there's also a great out door fruit and veg stall where you'll find everything you need at great prices.
Tip : If you're going for self catering then try and choose a hotel that guarantees a good view. It's always nice having this when dining in the evening.
Tip: If you open a bottle of fizz and decide you can't finish it (A rare thing, I know but it does happen) then pop a metal spoon in the opening.This stops the liquid from loosing its fizz. Sally calls this the wonder of chemistry. I call it bloody wonderful full stop.
We can also recommend Cafe Europa in the centre for that all important hang over breakfast. The full works will cost you €3 and set you up for the day. They also have a WiFi connection which you can access from €1.50 p/h.
The marina front is full of restaurants offering all kinds of cuisines including Spanish, Italian, Indian and Chinese. This part of town is quite pricey but you can pick up a lovely paella in the afternoon for around €12. They tell you the portions are small and recommend one each - but with the afternoon heat and the little white lie with regards to portion size, we found that one dish between us was more than enough!
You'll find good afternoon lunch deals everywhere, it's just a matter of strolling around and seeing what you fancy.
But, without doubt, the best night we had dining on the Island was at The Cap Blanc Aquariam during the sardine supper night (as mentioned above). Miss this at your peril!
Eroski Supermarket, San Antonio
Sunset is free!
Ibiza is famous for its sunset and sunset bars and these fabulous locations are reflected in the prices. Having said that, it really is worth visiting these beautiful bars on sunset strip at least once during your visit. Kanya, Mambo and Cafe del Mar are all lovely pre club bars to chill out in during the day and evenings. A large gin and mixer will cost you around €15, a beer will set you back approx €6 and a bottle of fizz around €30 for a brand that's cheap as chips in the local supermarket. If you think I'm going to tell you about the best clubs to go to now then your are totes obvs reading the wrong blog.
Ibiza's main attraction - the unforgettable blood orange sunset - is, of course, free and it doesn't matter where you are around the bay, as long as you're sat in this direction then it's going to be a gorgeous night.
Again, we would fill our ever faithful ruck sacks up with beer, go to Kanya and Mambo for a couple of drinks, then find a nice small beach which are laden across the bay and settle there for sunset. Lots of couples and people in general were doing this and to be honest, doing this wasn't really based on budget, it was just a much nicer option.
Ibiza Town
Getting there
Beautiful Ibiza town is 30 mins drive away from San Antonio. Getting there by local bus is cheap, easy and hassle free.
From the bus station take bus Number 3 which says 'Evissa' (this is the catalan name for ibiza). They run every 15 mins Mon-Sat and every 30 mins on Sunday. The journey takes 30 mins max, it takes you right into Ibiza Town and a single ticket cost €2. It's possible to do this as a day trip if you're based on another part of the island for the entire holiday.
Where we stayed However,
as we decided to spend the last few days of our trip in Ibiza Town and on that
side of the coast, we booked a hotel before arriving. It was difficult to get a
self catering hotel last minute on the net so we settled for a room instead at
the Maritimo Hotel. Set on the seafront around 15 mins walk from
Ibiza Town, Hotel Marítimo is 300 metres from Figueretas Beach. It offers
a hot tub, gym and indoor pool (which was really nice when the afternnon sun
was at its hottest), and all rooms include a private terrace. I's partnered
with the Lux Mar hotel opposite so you can also take advantage of their huge
outdoor swimming pool + free wifi in reception. Looking at the reviews, we
were lucky to have such a fabulous sea view room - it's not a guarantee apparently.
Price per night was €64 per room only, which we thought was great considering
the location. Hotel staff were brilliant and answered all our questions with a
smile. The food at the hotel wasn't very inventive or appealing but there are
fantastic restaurants on the beach front.
A room with a view - Hotel Maritimo
Tip: Catch the number 3 bus from San Antonio to Ibiza town. When the bus drops you off continue walking towards the beach front and to the left along the coast until you come to hotel Maritimo (10 mins max) Tip: If in doubt about directions, ask someone! DON'T do what we did and consult the iphone gps. This led us in the opposite direction up a flight of around 500 steps in 30 degree heat with a 15k case and ruck sacks. By the time we found the hotel we had almost divorced before the equal marriage bill had even gone through! Something cheaper? But, if you're looking for something even cheaper, on the main road opposite the front of the hotel there's a really funky looking hostel called Hostal Giramundo. This place was buzzing in the evening with its guests spilling onto the street from the bar. We didn't come across this when doing internet searches for hotels in the area, but it looked really popular with people of all ages coming and going from there. Prices start at around $25 each per night.
Hostal Giramundo
Eating / Drinking The seafront is packed full of restaurants and bars with prices varying depending where you eat. Most places offer artisan pizzas freshly baked on the premises with prices starting starting at €8. Tip: The pizzas were massive! Sharing one is more than enough! Cafe Retro Pista was also a nice find offering healthy food at a decent price. Veggies, vegans and macro biotic dieters are all welcome here. They also have a nice selection of fresh, cold juices. We found that Mo's bar was a top place to drink offering cold litres of larger at the cool price of €2.50. No one in this bar spoke english, including the staff and all the patrons seemed to be locals (hence the price maybe?). This place was a lot of fun to hang out with some great music and cheap food also on offer. The main beach is also quite lovely, although very busy in the day. The water is clear and turquoise here too and we spent many an afternoon on the beach drinking beers from the supermarket watching the world go by. Even though the restaurants and bars are really close to the beach front, there are no rules agains brining your own drinks here. But, the best location for a drink on this part of the Island by far was Restaurant Soleado located right on the beach front just by the hotel. The vibe is really chilled and the restaurant itself almost part of the beach. Service was great and for the location we thought the prices were good. A pint of beer is around €4.20 and cocktails start at €8. Their lunchtime menu is pretty great too offering a 2 course meal (usually fish dishes) for €19.50 each. The reviews on tripadvisor are excellent. We loved sipping on a cold beer here looking out to sea.
Restaurant Soleado
Old Ibiza Town
The diffenrence between the beach resorts and the old town is quite astounding. I wouldn't be far off by saying that they feel like totally different countries. With its elegant, chic, boutiques, cobbled streets and windy roads, packed full of history it's a totally different world to the beach area of Figueretas - plus it is laden with the most beautiful people we've ever seen! We started wondering if the 'beautiful people' party boat on the beach actually had a machine inside transforming sunburned, booze fuelled youths into seamlessly, even tanned, well-mannered beauties (probably not). A day here will change the way you view the seaside resorts - some of which can start to look quite tacky in comparison.
Cobbled streets of Old Ibiza town
Ibiza Castle, also known as Eivissa Castle, is at the very top
of the town’s massive hill (and when i say massive, I meen Mahoosive!). The
Castle and its other buildings remain very much today as they did in the 12th
century. The sandy fortress is home to centuries of history and design,
combining 12th century medieval architecture with Islamic and even 18th century
barracks. Bare in mind that the castle can only be viewed from the outside but
the walk towards it provides a fantastic view of the city and on your way
down you will come across more cafes, restaurants and boutiques
hidden in the windy alley ways.
Tip: Try
and catch a cool day weather wise to climb the steps to the old town, either
that or early morning/late evening. I should imagine it could be pretty
gruelling for some in the afternoon heat.
The long way up on foot to the castle
Going home (boo hiss!) Like most lovely holidays, our time there flew by and all of a sudden it was time to go home. All in all, we were really glad we made the decision to come and can definitely recommend Ibiza as a beautiful, relaxing and grown up holiday! The island is what you make of it, and the clubbing 18-30 aspect is just a small part of what it has to offer. We hope this article encourages you to consider Ibiza for a holiday in the future and that it has provided some kind of insight and advice. Tip: Bus Number 10 will take you directly from Ibiza back to the airport and will cost €3.20 each.
